FOLK guide to Madagascar
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5 min read
In brief
Where we go. Fianarantsoa and the Ambalakilonga community; then Ranomafana, Isalo, the coast of Ifaty and Anakao.
Languages. Malagasy and French.
Currency. Malagasy ariary.
Time zone. Three hours ahead of GMT.
Visa. Needed: 41 dollars for a stay of up to 30 days.
Best time to visit. April to November.
FOLK trip. From the plateau to the sea, 14 nights, from 1,990 €.
Between one picture and the next
Madagascar is almost always told the same way: lemurs, baobabs, beaches. They are there, and we will see them. But the island is almost twice the size of Italy, and the real country lies between one picture and the next.
Our trip starts in Fianarantsoa, on the plateau, among terraced rice fields and a few vineyards. From there you go down almost a thousand kilometres of Route Nationale 7, the road that leads to the sea: forest, then hills, then savannah, then canyons, then baobabs, then the villages of the Vezo, who live from fishing. There is a phrase you hear everywhere: mora mora, slowly slowly. On these roads it is not a saying, it is advice.
Best time to visit Madagascar
April to November, when it hardly ever rains. From December to March come the rains and the cyclones, which can block roads for days.
Between June and August the days on the plateau are clear and the nights cold, while in the south and on the coast it stays warm and the sea is good. Our departure dates are on the trip page.
Madagascar visa and documents
You need a visa for Madagascar. You can get it on arrival in Antananarivo, but it is easier to apply in advance at evisamada-mg.com, at least a week before. It costs 35 dollars for up to 15 days and 41 for up to 30: for our trip you need the second, because the first leaves no margin.
Your passport must be valid for at least six months and have a blank page. On arrival you must show your return ticket.
Rules change often. Before you leave, check your government's travel advice again, in the UK the FCDO page on Madagascar, or write to us.
Vaccinations and health in Madagascar
The first step is a travel clinic, at least six weeks before you leave. Hepatitis A and typhoid are usually discussed, and malaria prophylaxis is recommended. Your doctor decides.
In rural areas, between September and April, there are cases of plague every year. For travellers the risk is low: you prevent it with repellent and by keeping away from dead or sick animals. Ask your doctor whether you should carry an antibiotic.
Along Route Nationale 7, well-equipped hospitals are far apart and ask for payment before treatment: that is why here, more than elsewhere, you need a policy with repatriation and advance payment of costs. Drink only bottled or filtered water.
How much does a trip to Madagascar cost?
The trip costs 1,990 € for 14 nights. It includes the transfer to Fianarantsoa, food and lodging at Ambalakilonga, a vehicle with driver and guide for the whole journey south, park fees, the pirogue with Vezo fishermen, accommodation and the domestic flight back to Antananarivo. The full list is on the trip page.
Not included: the flight from Europe, which you buy once the departure is confirmed, the 41-dollar visa, vaccinations, lunches and dinners during the travel week, optional excursions in Anakao, tips and your own spending. The insurance included in the trip covers cancellation. Health insurance is paid by you: here it is essential, with repatriation and advance payment of costs.
Getting there
You land in Antananarivo. From there to Fianarantsoa is a full day on the road: the transfer is included, and it is already part of the journey. From the moment you land there is nothing left to organise, the Local Folk knows when you arrive.
The rest is by road, with a driver and a guide. Route Nationale 7 is paved, but travel times are measured in hours more than kilometres. At the end, a domestic flight takes you back to the capital.
What to see in Madagascar: Ranomafana, Isalo and the coast
The first week is at Ambalakilonga, near Fianarantsoa, with Educatori Senza Frontiere: a community that is home to around thirty young people whose lives have already been complicated. You put yourself at their disposal in sport, art and schoolwork, following whatever is happening in the community.
Then you head south. The Ranomafana forest, with lemurs and chameleons. Ambalavao, with its zebu market and the Anja reserve, run by the village. The canyons and natural pools of Isalo. The baobabs of the Reniala reserve. And finally the sea: by pirogue with the Vezo fishermen to the islet of Nosy Ve, and to Anakao, where there is time to do nothing.
Being with the people who host you
In Madagascar people always greet each other, and take their time: salama, hello, misaotra, thank you. Every village has its fady, taboos that change from one place to the next. There is no list to learn: there is the Local Folk, and the habit of asking first.
Always ask before taking photos, and of the young people at Ambalakilonga more than ever: their story is theirs to protect, not to show. We do not bring gifts to hand out and do not give money to children by the road. If you want to bring something for the community, ask us first.
What to pack for Madagascar
Layers, because you go from the cool plateau to the hot coast. A fleece for evenings in Fianarantsoa, hiking boots already worn in for Ranomafana and Isalo, sandals for the sea, a snorkelling mask if you have one. Then repellent, sun cream, a head torch. And cash: outside the towns ATMs are few, and in the south almost absent.
Frequently asked questions
How many hours are spent in the car?
Many, and it is right to say so up front. You travel almost a thousand kilometres south, and the road is half the trip.
Will we definitely see lemurs?
In Ranomafana and Anja almost always, but it is not a zoo. The park guides know where to look.
What fitness level do I need?
It is an active trip: long days on the road, trails in Ranomafana and Isalo, simple accommodation. If you have doubts about your fitness, talk to us before booking.
FOLK small group tours in Madagascar
From the plateau to the sea: a week with the Ambalakilonga community, then the journey down Route Nationale 7 to the sea of the Vezo. 14 nights, from 1,990 €.
Have a question? Write to us and let's talk.
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